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ROUTE OF THE CRUISE TO THE MEDITERRANEAN AND THE ORIENT. 
















WINTER CRUISE 


THE HAMBURG-AMERICAN LINE, 

To the Orient 


THE HAMBURG-AMERICAN LINE, 

37 c Broa.d'wa.y, 159 Randolph St,, 

NEW YORK, CHICAGO, 

Copyright , i8qj, by Emil L. Boas., General Manager 
Passenger Department , Hamburg-American Line. 

L 





To Madeira, 

The Mediterranean and 


The Orient. 

THE HAMBURG-AMERICAN LINE originated the plan 
1 of winter cruises by a Transatlantic Ocean Liner through 
the whole length of the Mediterranean, with stops of varying 
length at the most interesting places on the European, Asiatic 
and African shores of this ever fascinating inland sea. The 
experiment was first made five years ago, it was a success 
from the start, and the annual cruise having been repeated 
year after year, has now become a permanent feature of the 
Company’s service. These cruises have been patronized by 
the best classes of the traveling public, and the Company has 
received numerous letters voluntarily sent them by prominent 
people expressing the great pleasure derived from the excur¬ 
sion. In every instance, also, the passengers gave expression 
to their satisfaction by drawing up a memorial of thanks to 
the Company, the captain, officers and crew. 

In order to illustrate the convenience which the Hamburg- 
American Line’s cruise offers travelers bound for these ever- 
famous places, it is only necessary to compare the old way of 
visiting them with the new way. 

Olrl compelled travelers to depend on local 

1 He \JLQ. Way means of communication, usually small 
coasting steamers, in which they were often compelled to share 
stuffy state-rooms with orientals of varying degrees of cleanli¬ 
ness, and eat unsavory meals from soiled tablecloths. Upon 
arrival at any port, the custom-house had to be passed, and 
there was generally friction with the officials; then a hotel 
had to be hunted up; there was unpacking of bags, hurried 
sightseeing, and repacking to make connection with some 
coasting vessel for the next point of interest; then the hag¬ 
gling with extortionate hotel-keepers, and the different minor 
annoyances which made the wear and tear of this mode of 
traveling a serious effort. 

Another objection was the practical inability to pick up 
any article that struck your fancy and take it along. The 
bulk of extra baggage, and the task of crossing different 
frontiers with their custom-houses, rhadei-t almost impossible. 




Now consider 


T&z* AT^xth TIA,^ Comfortably ensconced in your state- 
ltie JMe^V Way . room aboard one of the Hamburg- 
American Twin-screw Express Steamers, you leave New 
York with all your belongings about you, and need not disturb 
yourself until you return to New York after having covered 
over twelve thousand miles, and paused in many lands. 
Everybody must see what a boon it is for the traveler to be 
carried around in his own hotel, have his mind free, and 
not to be bothered with packing and unpacking, etc. Then 
think of the pleasure of picking up little articles in shops and 
bazaars that strike your fancy, without considering the fact 
that your bags are full, or that you must pass many different 
custom-houses. 

But then in this new way you are not bound to your float¬ 
ing hotel. The stay at each port is so arranged that you may 
have novel experiences of native hotels and restaurants to 
your heart’s content. While the ship lies in the port the pass¬ 
engers may venture forth with a small bag, and take in as 
much of the native mode of living as they like, or they may 
return to the ship and take their meals there. 

The cruise to Madeira, the Mediterranean and the Orient 
planned for next winter, leaves Ne<zv York January 27, 1898, for 


Funchal (Madeira), 

Gibraltar, 

Malaga (Granada and the Alhambra), 

Algiers, 

Genoa, 

Villefranche (Nice), 

Bizerta (Tunis), 

Alexandria (Cairo and the Pyramids), 

Jaffa (Jerusalem, the Jordan and the Dead Sea), 

Beyrouth (Damascus), 

Constantinople, 

Athens, 

Canea (Crete), 

Falermo, 

Naples, 

Genoa, 

Nem) York* 

It will be seen that this excursion embraces the principal 
places of a region whose every inch of soil abounds with stir¬ 
ring reminiscences of ancient lore and history, regions rich 


3 


with magnificent monuments of past grandeur and countless 
treasures of art. 

To be able to make this unique excursion on board a pala¬ 
tial ocean liner like one of the Hamburg-American Line’s Ex¬ 
press Steamers, free from all the annoyances inseparable from 
hotels, railways, small boats, custom-houses, packing and un¬ 
packing of baggage, transfers, etc., etc., will, no doubt, appeal 
at once to all American travelers able to undertake the trip. 
No way can be conceived of visiting the far-famed places with 
greater safety, speed and comfort. It is the ideal method of 
seeing foreign countries and observing strange manners and 
customs without giving up one’s own habits and comforts. 
The cruise will last about 69 days, but passengers have the 
privilege of leaving the excursion at Genoa, if they desire to 
prolong their stay in Europe, and return from Hamburg, 
Southampton or Cherbourg, to New York, by any of the 
express steamers of the Hamburg-American Line, up to Au¬ 
gust 1, 1898. 

For rates of fare and further information about the cruise, <we 
refer to special price list, <vohich <will be sent to any address on 
application . 

The express steamers of the Hamburg-American Line are 
the largest ships of the German Merchant Marine and are un¬ 
surpassed for safety, speed and comfort They are constructed 
upon the principle of the twin-screw system, having two inde¬ 
pendent engines, with a total of 13,000-16,400 horse-power, 
divided by a longitudinal bulk-head, which separates the ship 
into two non-communicating halves, each fully equipped with 
engines, boilers, shaft and screw. Each side is again sub¬ 
divided into numerous water-tight compartments. There is 
also a double bottom with water-tight chambers. These 
steamers belong to the fastest ships afloat, the line holding the 
record for the best time between the European Continent, 
Southampton and New York, having made the passage be¬ 
tween New York and Southampton in the remarkably short 
time of 6 days, 9 hours and 43 minutes. This is equal to about 
five days, seventeen hours to Queenstown, the Southamp¬ 
ton route being about 300 miles longer. The arrangements 
for the passengers’ comfort on these steamers are perfect. 

The Company's illustrated pamphlet describing these 
steamers , as well as a little pocket hand-book for European 
Tourists co?itaining valuable information , will be sent free 
to any address on application. 

4 


Description of the Tour. 

The route from New York to Madeira is south of the lati¬ 
tude of New York, Funchal being in latitude 32 0 38' 4" N. 
By this route the rigor of a passage across the North Atlantic 
in winter is entirely avoided. The trip from New York occu¬ 
pies about seven days. 

wr 1 / Neither language nor pencil can exaggerate the 
Madeira, beauty of this, the finest of the Atlantic Isles. 
In climate it may well be reckoned among the Isles of the 
Blest. Madeira lies between the 32d and 33d degree of lati¬ 
tude, and belongs to Portugal. The island rises from the sea 
in magnificent outline, with lofty precipices and vast detached 
rocks of fantastic shapes, the peaks being grouped like the 
bastions and pinnacles of a gigantic fortress. The capital of 
Madeira is Funchal, which lies on a slope of extraordinary 
abruptness, rent into three divisions by two gorges with 
almost vertical walls. 

At the head of these 
ravines, peaks 4,000- 
5,000 feet high ap¬ 
pear, while a spur 
of the mountain is 
crowned by a gray 
old castle, formerly 
strongly fortified. 

Funchal is well 
built, clean and pros¬ 
perous ; the streets, 
however, are narrow 
and intricate, and ar¬ 
chitecture as an aes¬ 
thetic art has been 
almost neglected. 

There is a cathedral, 
the Se, pleasing in its 
general plan, with a 
beautifully carved, 
tinted and gilded nave 
and transept. But if art has done little for Funchal, nature 
has made ample compensation. Many of the solid but un¬ 
pretentious houses conceal rare attractions within their gates, 

5 



^ t v. • 

FUNCHAL, MADEIRA. 



GIBRALTAR. 


revealed like magic upon entering. There are terraced gar¬ 
dens overlooking the ocean and the mountains, stocked with 
the profuse vegetation of two zones. On this enchanted isle 
neither the frost of winter nips its buds, nor the heat of sum¬ 
mer fades its hues, and perennial verdure greets the eye. The 
vine was first introduced from Cyprus in the fifteenth century, 
and quickly became one of the most important products of the 
island, the red volcanic soil giving the flavor which brought it 
into world-wide repute. 

On account of the steepness of all the roads, there are 
almost no wheeled vehicles on Madeira, sledges drawn by 
oxen taking their place. The driver carries a grease bag which 
he lays at intervals in front of the runners. Another convey¬ 
ance peculiar to Funchal is the hammock carried on men’s 
shoulders. The coasting sled is also in general use, and there 
is probably no other place in the world where business men 
may be seen every day going to their office, sliding down hill 
on a sled. 


Gibraltar. 


The Straits of Gibraltar are entered off Cape 
Trafalgar, where the shores of Europe and 
Africa gradually approach each other, until at Tarifa they are 
only twelve miles distant. Soon the great rock, which has 
been turned into the famous fortress of Gibraltar, rises ma¬ 
jestically from the sea and captivates the eye. This rock, out¬ 
wardly so harmless in appearance, is all undermined and tun¬ 
nelled with wonderful ingenuity, and at enormous expense. 
The fortifications and tunnelled galleries may be inspected by 
visitors upon permit from the military secretary’s office. The 


6 








THE ALHAMBRA. 


highest point, 1,430 feet above the level of the sea, is called 
the signal, “ El Hacho,” and the panorama from this eagle’s 
eyrie is unrivaled, the eye sweeping over two seas and two 
quarters of the world. The extreme end of the rock facing 
the sea is “ Europa Point,” crowned by a light-house and 
defended by strong batteries. 

The pride of Gibraltar is the Alameda, which is laid out 
in charming style and commands fine views of the Straits and 
the coast of Africa. The Alameda is the fashionable lounge, 
and the spectacle presented by the contrast of population at 
this extreme point of Europe, is novel and curious. The latest 
London bonnet is seen side by side with the mantilla de tiro ; 
blue eyes and rosy complexion, next melting black eyes and 
olive-dark skin. 


mL! “ -a ’ - - *-the blue Mediterranean 

is surrounded by vine- 



clad hills. The principal building is the cathedral in the 
Graeco-Roman style, dating from the sixteenth century. 
Passengers will not tarry long in Malaga, but proceed at 
once to 


the greatest attraction of which, the Alhambra, 
* is the grandest monument of Arabic architect- 


Granada 


ure in Europe. It is situated in a beautiful region on the 
ridge of a thickly wooded mountain, is surrounded by reddish 
walls, and with its thirty towers, its mosques, churches, pal¬ 
aces, residences and courts, covers an enormous area. The 
construction of this wonderful piece of architecture was begun 


7 













in the year 1213, during the reign of Mohammed Abu Abdal¬ 
lah, and was completed in 1338. Sixteen years after its com¬ 
pletion the castle fell into the hands of the Christians, who 
added a number of buildings, mainly fortresses, to it. 

When it is considered that the Alhambra was not only 
occupied by the entire retinue of the most brilliant court of 
those days, but also housed a body-guard of 10,000 men, while 
during the Moors’ final struggle against the Christians, it was 
defended by 40,000 Moslems, an approximate idea of the vast¬ 
ness of this cluster of edifices, which it required more than a 
century to erect, may be formed. 

For some time after the Christian conquest, the Alhambra 
remained the seat of Castilian monarchs. Emperor Charles 
V. began the construction of a splendid palace, which he in¬ 
tended to make his permanent residence, but his plans were 
unfortunately frustrated by earthquakes. 

The light and elegant architecture of the buildings, with 
their graceful porticos and colonnades, their domes and ceil¬ 
ings, is glowing with tints, which, in the transparent atmos¬ 
phere of southern Spain, have lost nothing of their original 
brilliancy, while their airy halls admit the perfume of the sur¬ 
rounding gardens, and the magnificent fountains still spread a 
delicious coolness in their courts; the whole testifying to the 
taste, the wealth and the luxury of the builders. 

The Alhambra is approached from the River Genii, from 
where the outer portal is reached first. Passing through this, 
one enters a beautiful park, through which shady walks lead 
upwards. Gradually glimpses of towers are to be had on the 
right and the left, among them, built on high rocks, the 
“ torres vermejos,” so called from the red tiles of which they 
are constructed. At the top of the steep path stands the “Gate 
of Judgment,” through which an arched passage leads to the 
interior. This passage opens into the “ Court of Cisterns,” 
where are innumerable wells, hewn into the solid rock. 
Among these is the famous well which extends through the 
mountain down to its base, and which supplied the water for 
the royal table. 

Passing over this court to the opposite side, a door leads 
directly into the interior of the Alhambra, the light and ex¬ 
quisite architecture of which at once delights and surprises. 

Before you is the “Court of the Baths,” in the centre of 
which a large basin with beds of flowers, reflects the graceful 
pillars and arched alcoves surrounding the court. From here 

8 



PLACE DU GOUVERNEMENT, ALGIER8. 

you step into the famous “ Court of the Lions,” in the centre 
of which is the great fountain, celebrated in song and fiction. 
This court, which is one hundred feet long by sixty feet wide, 
is surrounded on all sides by light and graceful arcades, 
decorated with veil-like stucco, and supported by slender pil¬ 
lars of the purest white marble. 

The fountain consists of two large basins of black marble, 
one above the other, and is supported by twelve lions. 

A richly decorated door connects the “Court of Lions” 
with a lofty hall, inlaid with mosaic of white and yellow 
marble, the “ Hall of the Two Sisters.” This hall is faintly 
illuminated, a cupola above diffusing into it a mellow light. 
The lower portions of the walls are tiled with porcelain, into 
which have been artistically baked, in exquisite colors, the 
coats of arms of Moorish lords. The upper walls and the ceil¬ 
ing are covered with curious and wonderful arabesques of 
Damascus stucco, representing fantastic groups, with quota¬ 
tions from the Koran intermingled with poetical inscriptions. 

Adjoining the Court of the Lions is also the “ Hall of the 
Abencerrages,” made famous by the cruel massacre within 
its walls of the noble Knights of that name. 

The Alhambra throughout presents a wealth of decorations 
in carving, stucco, painting and mosaic, and an execution of 
architecture in detail that are marvelous and bewildering. 

A < , the capital of La Nouvelle France, offers a beau- 

A. LgterSf tiful panorama, as it rises in steep terraces from 
the well sheltered bay, which is hardly inferior to that of 








Naples. Algiers has 
of late become a great 
resort for invalids and 
the delicate to winter 
in, on account of the 
lovely climate, which, 
from October to 
March, is as warm as 
an English summer; 
but, besides, it offers 
sights of absorbing in¬ 
terest to the tourist. 
There are oriental 
ways and customs, 
beautiful specimens of 
Moorish and Byzan¬ 
tine architecture, and 
remains of antiquity 
of rare interest. 

Algiers. Though in part a 

French town, it has a motley population of Arabs, Berbers. 
Turks, Moors, Bedouins, Negroes and Maltese, and its streets 
offer queer spectacles of all kinds. 

The French quarter is down 
m the lower part of the city, where 
a broad macadamised boulevard 
runs for miles along the bay, 
bounded on one side by fine pri¬ 
vate houses, splendid hotels, etc., 
and on the other by a stone bal¬ 
ustrade. This promenade is 
much frequented by the elegant 
world of Algiers, gathering in 
front of the numerous cafes, and 
enjoying the view which is indeed 
unrivaled. One of the beautiful 
suburbs, Mustapha Superieure, 
contains the palace of the Gover¬ 
nor, built in Moorish style and 
surrounded by magnificent gar¬ 
dens. 

The old town has curious street in Algiers. 

native streets, some not more than four feet wide, and fearfully 

10 







, steep. It is clean and 

A picturesque, abounding 

» in specimens of Moor¬ 

ish architecture, in 
shops and bazaars, and 
surrounded by the old 
Kasbah (citadel) at the 
top. There is a fish 
market with all kinds 
of Mediterranean fish 
of most brilliant colors. 
Fresh grapes, green 
peas and new potatoes; 
dates, bananas and or¬ 
anges are plentiful all 
the winter season. 
Many novel sights may 
be seen at the town 
gates, especially on 
market days, when 
genoa. there are crowds of 

people bartering, watching the snake-charmer, or listening 
to the oft-told tales of the story-teller. Then the caravans ar¬ 
rive from the interior with lines of heavily laden camels and 
rows of donkeys. 

Of the mosques, the oldest is Djama-el-Kebir (the Great), 
of the tenth century. 

There is also a cathedral, 
formerly a mosque, with 
the Archbishop’s palace, 
an old Moorish edifice. 

Genoa. The situat,on 


of Genoa, ris¬ 
ing above the sea in a 
wide semicircle, and its 
numerous palaces, justly 
entitle it to the epithet 
“La Superba.” The 
beauty of its situation, 

and the interesting rem- CBURCH OF „ >TA „ ARIA OEROA . 

miscences of its ancient 

magnificence render a visit very attractive, especially to the 
traveler who is visiting Italy for the first time. 


ii 





Genoa has over 210,000 inhabitants, and is the chief com¬ 
mercial town of Italy. Of the many mansions of the Genoese 
nobility worth visiting, we mention the Palazzi Rosso, Duraz- 
zo, Balbi and Doria, containing numerous works of art, Ru¬ 
bens and Van Dyck having contributed to preserve the mem¬ 
ory of many members of these families. The cathedral of San 
Lorenzo dates from the eleventh century, and contains many 
precious relics. The Church of Sta. Maria in Carignano, is an 
imitation of Bramante’s original plan of St. Peter’s in Rome 
and remarkable for its harmonious proportions. There is a 
magnificent view from the gallery of the dome, embracing the 

city and harbor with its 
fortifications, the beautiful 
coast, the Riviera di Pon- 
ente to the west, and the 
Riviera di Levante to the 
east, and towards the south 
the vast blue expanse of the 
Mediterranean. A fine 
statue of Columbus, who 
is said to have been born at 
Cogoleto, near Genoa, is on 
the Piazza Acquaverde. 

GENOA - Other points of interest are 

the Campo Santo and the fine park of Acqua Solo. One of 
the most charming drives is to Pegli, where there are many 
fine villas, among them the Villa Pallavicini, with a beautiful 
garden well worth a prolonged visit. 

Villr-f znrtu? a sma ^ town, whose roadstead has become 
V lUC/ranCrL6 f am0 us. It is only two miles from Nice and 
seven miles from Monaco, which may be conveniently reached 
by train or boat. Passengers may leave the steamer at Genoa 
and make the trip to Nice by train or carriage along the cele¬ 
brated Riviera, which is one of the most picturesque regions 
in Europe, the road winding around precipitous cliffs, washed 
by the surf of the Mediterranean and crowned with the vener¬ 
able ruins of towers erected in by-gone ages. The charm of 
the scenery is enhanced by the vast expanse of the beautiful 
Mediterranean Sea, with its ever-varying hues, changing from 
the deepest blue to soft purple in the distance. 

On this route from Genoa many renowned winter resorts 
are passed, among them Pegli, San Remo, Bordighera, Venti¬ 
miglia, Mentone, Monaco and Nice, the last being the most 

12 









NICE. 


celebrated resort in Southern France. The natural barrier of 
the Maritime Alps protects the coast here from northern winds 
and produces the far-famed mildness of climate, which makes 
Nice and the other resorts of the Riviera the rendezvous of 
invalids and others from all parts of Europe, who seek refuge 
from the rigors of winter. The season at Nice begins with the 
races early in January and closes with a great regatta at the 
beginning of April. 

Y > lies inland and passengers are landed at the French 
1 UtliS nava i station Bizerta, from where they are conveyed 
to Tunis by rail in about three hours. Tunis is a regency, 
still nominally under the rule of its native Bey, but actually 
a part of the French possessions in Africa. Tunis presents 
all the various phases of Oriental life. It has a motley popu¬ 
lation of over 150,000 souls, for the most part Moors, Berbers, 
native Jews and Negroes. There are about 30,000 Europeans 
of various nationalities. One of the most interesting places 
is the Bazaar, where many curious wares of domestic manu¬ 
facture are offered for sale. Near the Bazaar is the palace of 
the Bey, a very interesting building, constructed in the Moor¬ 
ish style. It has hardly ever been described, and the traveler 
should not fail to visit it, as it contains many rooms that are 
gems of Oriental architecture. Near by is the Kasbah, an 
extensive and still half-fortified citadel which dates from the 
time of Emperor Charles V. The numerous mosques, with 
their graceful minarets and splendidly decorated roofs, can 
only be inspected externally, admission to them being denied 
to unbelievers. Many novel sights may be seen in the Hal- 
faouine Square or at the town-gates, especially on market 

13 





days, when there are crowds of people bartering, watching 
the snake-charmer, or listening to the oft-told tales of the 
story-teller. Then the caravans arrive from the interior with 

lines of heavily laden camels 
and rows of donkeys. About 
two miles from town is the 
Bardo, an extensive pile of 
buildings resembling a town 
in miniature, and containing 
another magnificent palace 
of the Bey. It has been en¬ 
tirely restored by the French, 
and is one of the chief attrac¬ 
tions of Tunis. A magnifi¬ 
cent flight of steps, guarded 
by two marble lions, leads to 
the great central court, which 
is surrounded by a row of 
marble arcades. The Crystal 
Room is the reception room 
of the Bey, but the Pasha’s 
room is the handsomest of 
all. 

The ruins of ancient 
Carthage can be reached from Tunis by railroad in about an 
hour. This spot, where once the Queen of the Seas had her 
throne, is rich in interest and contains important ruins, al¬ 
though the outline of the early city is no longer traceable. It 
is said to have been founded by the Phoenicians under Queen 
Dido, in B. C. 880, and became the rival of Rome, ruling over 
300 cities. It was destroyed by Scipio Africanus Minor in the 
third Punic war in B. C. 146, then rebuilt by Augustus, con¬ 
quered by Genseric in A. D. 439 and again by Belisarius in 
533, and finally succumbed to the Arabs in 647 and was en¬ 
tirely destroyed. 

On the old promontory of Carthage, at a height of over 
400 feet above the sea, and near the light-house, is the resi¬ 
dence of Cardinal Lavigerie, Archbishop of Algiers, the cele¬ 
brated philanthropist and anti-slavery apostle. 

^ f r ' Since the close of the last century, when 
SlLexanaria. Egypt was in a great measure re-discovered 
by the French savants attached to Bonaparte’s expedition, its 
historical and archaeological marvels have been gradually un- 

14 



TOWN GATE, TUNIS. 



veiled to the world, whose ever-increasing attention it has 
attracted. Egvpt has the peculiar charm of the Oriental cli¬ 
mate, the singularly clear atmosphere, and the wonderful color¬ 
ing and effects of light and shade, unknown in northern coun¬ 
tries. The exuberant fertility of its cultivated districts con¬ 
trasts sharply with the solemn, awe-inspiring desert. At 
every step we encounter venerable monuments which have 
survived the destructive influences of thousands of years, and 
the vandalism of invaders, and which being executed on the 
grandest scale and with the greatest artistic skill, cannot fail 
to excite our highest admiration. The unrivaled attractions of 
Egypt will supply the traveler with a subject of life-long 
interest. 

Alexandria in its palmy days is said to have numbered 
over half a million inhabitants; at present it contains about 
200,000 souls. Shortly before entering the harbor we observe 
the palace of Ras-el-Tin and the celebrated light-house of 
Pharos. 

Almost the only important relic of antiquity in the city is 
Pompey’s Pillar, a red granite 
shaft over ioo feet in height. The 
monument which vied with it in 
general interest, was Cleopatra’s 
Needle, which, up to March, 1880, 
stood at Ramleh, about six miles 
from Alexandria. It was pre¬ 
sented by the Khedive Ismail to 
the city of New York, and was 
raised by American machinery 
from the place it had occupied 
for 2 000 years and conveyed to 
New York in a specially con¬ 
structed vessel. 

The railway takes passengers 
from Alexandria to Cairo in four 
and one-half hours. 

✓-r / the residence of the Khe- 
Kj&tVOt dive, is the largest city 
in Africa and has over 400,000 in- the sphinx. 

habitants. The street scenes presented by the city of the 
Khalifs, affords an inexhaustible fund of amusement and de¬ 
light, admirably illustrating the whole world of Oriental fic¬ 
tion and producing an indelible impression on the uninitiated 

15 









denizen of the West. 
What makes Cairo so 
romantic and novel is 
the contrast of civil¬ 
ized and barbarous 
scenes and incidents 
it presents, which re¬ 
cur everywhere in this 
capital of the desert. 
Cairo may be com¬ 
pared to a living mu¬ 
seum of all imaginable 
and unimaginable pha¬ 
ses of existence, of re- 
temple of isis. finement and degener¬ 

acy, of civilization and barbarism, of knowledge and ignorance, 
of Paganism, Christianity and Mohammedanism. These 
marvelous scenes cannot fail to strike everyone most forcibly. 

The Muski is the chief business thoroughfare. The busy 
traffic in this street often presents an interminable raveled 
and twisted string of men, women and animals, of walkers, 
riders, and carriages of every description. Foreigners, ladies 
as well as gentlemen, may ride with perfect safety through 
the midst of all this confusion, and they will often have op¬ 
portunities of observing most picturesque and amusing 
scenes. The denseness of the crowd sometimes seems to 
preclude the possibility of further progress, but the hammar, 
or donkey boy, is pretty sure to elbow a passage without much 
difficulty. 

The bazaars of Cairo, though inferior to those of Constan¬ 
tinople, present to the traveler so many novel features and so 
many interesting traits of Oriental character, that he should 
endeavor to pay them repeated visits in order to become 
acquainted with their peculiarities. The handsomest shops, 
the principal cafes, palaces and theatres are on the Ezbekiyeh, 
a beautiful square of large proportions, with fine pleasure 
grounds in the centre. Cairo contains a large number of 
mosques in all stages of preservation; the most important are 
the Garni Sultan Hassan, or “Superb Mosque,” the finest ex¬ 
isting monument of Arabian architecture, and the GUmi Mo¬ 
hammed Ali, or “Alabaster Mosque,” whose lofty and grace¬ 
ful minarets are so conspicuous from a distance as to form 
one of the landmarks of Cairo. Many mosques contain tho 

16 



















CAIRO. 

tombs of the Khalifs and Sultans who founded them. The 
Garni el-Azhar has been converted into a university which 
is now the most important in Mahometan territory. The 
tombs of the Khalifs and the tombs of Mamelukes, although 
falling to ruins, are exceedingly interesting. A visit to the 
Citadel should not be omitted. It affords a beautiful view of 
the city and its surroundings. The broad Shubra avenue 
toward the north is lined with beautiful sycamore trees, and is 
the “Rotten Row” of Cairo. The suburb of Bulak contains in 
its museum of Egyptian antiquities a magnificent collection, 
and entirely unrivaled of its kind. 

Excursions may be made from Cairo in various directions, 
all offering sights of great interest. To the northeast of the 
city are the villages of Abbasiyeh, with its observatory and 
Khedival palace, and Matariyeh, with the Tree and Well of 
the Holy Virgin, who is said to have rested here during the 
flight to Egypt. A little beyond are situated the ruins of the 
famous ancient Heliopolis, the city of the sun, of which an 
obelisk and the outer wall are now the only vestiges. To the 
west of the city on an island in the Nile, are the palace and 
park of the Gezireh, well worth a visit. 

Gizeh, with its great Pyramids, and the Sphinx, is only 
one and a half hours distant from the city, but the visit may 
be combined with the excursion to the sight of ancient Mem¬ 
phis with the colossal statue of Ramses II. and to the Ne¬ 
cropolis of Sakkara with its step-Pyramid, the Apis Tombs 
and the Mastaba of Ti, the most interesting and best pre¬ 
served monument of its kind, containing sculptures of mar¬ 
velous skill, and in an excellent state of preservation, consider¬ 
ing their age of over 5,000 years. 

Another excursion may be made by railway to the baths 
of H el wan, an artificial oasis in the desert. Near it are the 
subterrannean quarries of Masara and Tura, which yielded 

17 





the stone used in the 
construction of the 
pyramids. The time 
allotted for Alexan¬ 
dria and Cairo is suf¬ 
ficient to visit with 
ease all the points of 
greatest interest. 
t rr A blue range 
Jaffa* G f | n the ' 
distance—the moun¬ 
tains of Judea—yellow 
beach, and lastly, the 
appearance of the 
town of Jaffa, rising 
on a hill, like a fortified place, proclaim to the traveler that 
he is approaching the most interesting country in the world— 
the “ Holy Land.” 

The journey from Jaffa to Jerusalem is now made by rail 
in a few hours. At first sight many will be sadly disappointed 
in the Holy City, for it would seem as though little were left 
of the ancient City of Zion and Moriah. The present de¬ 
graded aspect of the place, where once the stupendous scenes 
were enacted which exercised so supreme an influence on 
religious thought throughout the world, cannot fail to make a 
melancholy impression upon the traveler, but if he penetrate 
beneath the crust of rubbish which shrouds the sacred places 
from view, he will be able to realize to himself a picture of the 
Jerusalem of antiquity. 

The first visit will be to the Haram esh-Sheriff, one of the 
most profoundly interesting spots in the world. The legends 
attached to the “ esh-sakhra” stone, which forms the centre 
of the sanctuary, extend back to the remotest antiquity, and 
we may hence infer that this summit of Mount Zion or Moriah 
has been consecrated to divine worship from time immemorial. 
So far back as the time of Abraham (Gen. XXII., 2), this ap¬ 
pears to have been a place of sacrifice, and this was also the 
site selected by Solomon for the erection of the Temple. 

Near by is the Wailing Place of the Jews, a huge wall 
where the Jews repair on Fridays to bewail the downfall of 
Jerusalem, kissing the stones and weeping. The traveler will 
next turn to the Church of the Sepulchre, to Golgatha, the 
Via Dolorosa, the Muristan (once a monastery founded by 



18 













TEMPLE OF SOLOMON, JERUSALEM. 

Charlemagne and now a hospital), the Church of St. Anne, 
the Citadel, or City of David, and the monasteries of the 
different sects. A walk through the environs of the town 
leads to the Chapel of the Tomb of the Virgin, the Garden of 
Gethsemane, the Mount of Olives, the Tombs of the Prophets, 
of the Kings, and of the Judges, also to the Valley of the 
Kidron with the tombs of Absalom and Jehosaphat, the Pool 
of Siloah and Job’s Well, the Valley of Hinnom with its rock- 
tombs, and the Building of the Field of Blood. A ride of a 
little over an hour takes the traveler to Bethlehem, with the 
Church of St. Mary, erected over the traditional birthplace of 
Christ. 

Now that the steamer’s stay at Jaffa has been extended 
to 120 hours, ample time is given to visit the Dead Sea, 
Jericho and the river Jordan and tourists should not fail to 
avail themselves of the opportunity of making this interesting 
journey. One of the routes is via Bethany and Cherith’s 
brook, and returning from Bethany to Jerusalem by the road 
over the Mount of Olives. On this route the traveler passes 
Elisha’s Fountain, the traditional Kahn of the good Samaritan 
the valley of Achor, the point marked as the scene of the 
baptism of our Saviour, the site of ancient Gilgal, the ruins of 
the House of Mary and Martha, and the Tomb of Lazarus. 
Mt. Nebo and Pisgah, the brook of Jabbok and the site of the 
ruined castle of Machaerus, where John the Baptist was be¬ 
headed, will also be pointed out to the tourist. 

19 












THE POOL OF HEZEKIAH.—INTERIOR OF JAFFA GATE.—DAMASCUS GATE. 
JERUSALEM. 


CD ±t. the ancient Berytus, is the most important sea- 

IjCyVOUln, port an( j commercial town in Syria. The en¬ 
trance to the bay of Beyrouth is magnificent, the town being 
beautifully situated on a slight eminence, while in the back¬ 
ground towers the majestic Lebanon, with its snow clad 
peaks. 

The town itself, in which commercial interests predomi¬ 
nate, offers little of particular interest to visitors. The princi¬ 
pal building is the Chief Mosque, which adjoins the bazaars, 
and is said to have been erected by the Crusaders immediately 
after the capture of the town by Baldwin I. in 1108. The silk 
goods and filigree work made here are sent all over the Orient. 
The distance between Beyrouth and Damascus is about 
seventy miles, which the railroad traverses in a few hours. 

D arc While the ancient cities along the Nile are 
UdtVLdSCUS* known only by the magnificence of their ruined 
temples, while Baalbec and Palmyra have long since passed 
away, while Babylon is a heap in the desert, and Tyre a ruin 
on the shore, Damascus, which Josephus declares was stand¬ 
ing before Abraham’s time, and which is called in the prophe¬ 
cies of Isaiah, “the head of Syria,” is to-day, as it has been 
for thousands of years, a mighty city, influencing the customs 
and trade of a region of hundreds of miles around it. 

The cause of its importance as a city in all the ages, is 
easily seen upon approaching it. Miles before you see the 
Mosques of the modern city, the fountains of a copious and 
perennial stream spring from among the rocks and brushwood 
at the base of the Anti-Lebanon, creating a wide area about 

20 





them, rich with prolific vegetation. These are the “streams of 
Lebanon,” which are poetically spoken of in the songs of 
Solomon, and the “rivers of Damascus,” which Naaman, not 

unnaturally, preferred 
to all the ‘ ‘ waters of 
Israel.” This stream, 
with its many branches, 
is the inestimable treas¬ 
ure of Damascus. While 
the desert is a fortifica¬ 
tion round Damascus, 
the river, where the hab¬ 
itation of men must al¬ 
ways have been gath¬ 
ered, as along the Nile, 
is its life. 

The city, which is 
situated in a wilderness 
minaret of the bride, Damascus. of gardens of flowers 

and fruits, has rushing through its streets the limpid and re¬ 
freshing current; nearly every dwelling has its fountain, and 
at night the lights are seen flashing on the waters that dash 
along from their mountain home. As you first view the city 
from one of the overhanging ridges, you are prepared to ex¬ 
cuse the Mohammedans for calling it the earthly paradise. 
Around the marble min¬ 
arets, the glittering 
domes and the white 
buildings, shining with 
ivory softness, a maze of 
bloom and fruitage, 
where pomegranate, 
orange and apricot, plum 
and walnut, mingle their 
varied tints of green, is 
presented to the sight, in 
striking contrast to the 
miles of barren desert 
over which you have just 
ridden. 

Damascus remains 
the same true type of an 
Oriental city. Caravans 



INTERIOR OF A HOUSE, DAMA6CU8. 

come and go from Bagdad and 
21 







Mecca, as of old; merchants sit and smoke over their costly 
bales in dim bazaars; drowsy groups sip their coffee in kiosks 
overhanging the river; the bread boy cries aloud, “O, Allah! 
who sustainest us, send trade;” the drink seller, as he rattles 
his brass cups, exclaims: “ Drink and cheer thine heart,” and 
all the brilliant costumes of the east mingle in the streets. 
Although Cairo contains a much larger population than Da¬ 
mascus, its bazaars are by no means as extensive or im¬ 
posing. These bazaars are in long avenues, roofed over, and 
each is devoted to some special trade. There we find the silk, 
the sadler’s, the tobacco, the copper-smith’s, the book-seller’s, 
the shoe and many other bazaars, and now and then we come 
across an “antique Damascus blade” which was made last 
year in Germany. 

While passing through the city on market day, you are at¬ 
tracted by Persians in gorgeous silks, Nubians in black and 
white, Greeks in their national costumes, Jews with long ring¬ 
lets, Bedouins, Druses, Kurds and Armenians mingling to¬ 
gether, and lines of pilgrims on their way to Mecca—a mar¬ 
velous medley of humanity, not to be seen, perhaps, elsewhere 
on the globe. The great mosque (there are over two hundred 
smaller ones) exhibits three distinct styles of architecture, 
marking three epochs in the history of the place, and proclaim¬ 
ing the three dynasties that have successively possessed it. 
In the transept is a chapel said to contain the head of John the 
Baptist, which was found in the crypt of the church. The 
“ street called straight,” which is interesting to all New Testa¬ 
ment readers, is about a mile in length and runs across the 
city from west to east. 

In round numbers the population is about 150,000, 100,000 
of whom are Muslims. 

Cnrxt+an+innnlr The Strait of the Dard anelles, the 
I^OnSianTinOpLe. ancient Hellespont, which unites the 

Aegean with the Sea of Marmara, is entered between the castles 
and light-houses of Sedil Bahr and Kumkaleh, the former in 
Europe, the latter in Asia. This spot is replete with classic 
reminiscences. In the shallow bay behind Kumkaleh, the 
Greek fleet landed at the beginning of the Trojan war, and 
not far inland is the place which Schliemann’s excavations 
have shown to be the site of ancient Troy. The shores ap¬ 
proach more and more, and soon the narrowest part of the 
strait is reached, guarded by two forts, Kilid Bahr in Europe, 
and Chanak-Kalesi in Asia, the castles of the Dardanelles, 

22 


par excellence. The strait is famous in history for the pas¬ 
sage of Xerxes, and after him Alexander, by means of a bridge 
of boats. Nor is its name less widely known from the story of 

Hero and Leander, and 
from Lord Byron’s suc¬ 
cessful attempt to rival 
the ancient swimmer. 
Cape Abydos on the 
right, which faces Cestos 
on the European side, 
seems almost to close the 
strait, but soon the shores 
recede, the important 
town of Gallipoli is 
passed and the ship en¬ 
ters the sea of Marmara, 
the ancient Propontis. 
Constantinople prop¬ 
er, the Turkish Stamboul, lies on the south side of the last 
and largest of the inlets which cut the western shore of the 
Bosphorous. This inlet, the Golden Horn, forms a magnifi¬ 
cent harbor, capable of floating over a thousand ships. The 
old city is connected by bridges with the modern towns of 
Galata and Pera on the north side, chiefly inhabited by Chris¬ 
tians, the former being the seat 
of commercial establishments, 
the latter of diplomatic bodies. 

On the opposite side of the 
Bosphorus, in Asia, is the city 
of Scutari, the ancient Chrys- 
opolis. The first point of at¬ 
traction to be visited is the 
Galata Tower, where night and 
day a guard watches for the 
first sign of any conflagration 
that may break out in the city. 

The panorama it commands is 
of overwhelming beauty. Be¬ 
low are the two parallel chains 
of the city, embracing a hun¬ 
dred amphitheatres, of monu¬ 
ments and gardens, mosques, mosque of valide, Constantinople. 
bazaars, kiosks, seraglios, and houses of an infinite variety of 

23 




THE SULTAN’S PRAYER ON FRIDAY AT THE MOSQUE. 








colors, and thousands of minarets, with shining pinnacles ris¬ 
ing to the sky. 

The most important of the buildings of Constantinople is 

the Mosque of St. So¬ 
phia, or Aya Sophia 
Jamisi, which ranks as 
perhaps the finest ex¬ 
ample of Byzantine 
style. In striking con¬ 
trast with the noble 
specimens of Gothic ar¬ 
chitecture, it presents, 
from the outside, an un- 
symmetrical and dispro¬ 
portionate appearance, 
but within the visitor 
fishing in the bosphorus. cannot fail to be im¬ 

pressed by the bold span of the arches and the still bolder 
sweep of the dome, while the eye is at once bewildered and 
charmed by the rich decoration. The first stone of St. Sophia, 
or the Church of Divine Wisdom, was laid in 502 by Emperor 
Justinian, and ten thousand workmen are said to have been em¬ 
ployed upon the work, which cost no less than $5,000,000. To 
add to its splendor, the temples of the ancient gods at Heliop¬ 
olis and Ephesus, at Delos and Baalbec, at Athens and Cyzicus 
were plundered of their columns. 

There are about four hundred different mosques in Con¬ 
stantinople, the most remarkable of which besides the Sophia, 
is the Kutchuk Aya Sophia, the original model of the great 
church built for Justinian. The Church of the Saviour, with the 
monastery of the Chora, is a gem of beauty still, even in its 
decay, rich with mosaic of the fourteenth century, of the purest 
and most refined style. The Mosque of Ahmed, light and 
graceful, its dome upheld by four enormous round pilasters, 
distinguished by six minarets, has the custody of the Standard 
of the Prophet. The Mosque of Soliman, more a city in di¬ 
mensions than a temple, contains the inscription of Kara his- 
sari. This mosque is higher even than St. Sophia, and its dome 
rests on four wonderful columns of rose granite. Besides 
there is the light and cheerful mosque of Mahamed, that of 
Bejazet, most elegant in form, that of Osman, all of marble, 
and that of Shah Zade, with the most graceful minarets. 

The Hippodrome (Et-Meidan) is the centre and focus of 

24 









the city’s life and the theatre of its festivities and crimes. 
Here it was where the fabulous hecatomb of the Janissaries 
took place. The serpentine column in the centre still bears 
the mark of the famous sabre-stroke of Mahomet, the Con¬ 
queror. 

Other points of interest are the Museum of the Janissaries 
the Seraglio Gardens, where the inclined plane may still be 
seen by which faithless odalisques were rolled into the sea, 
and the Sublime Porte; the tower of the Seraskierat (War 
Office), the tombs of the Sultans Mahmud and Abdul Aziz; 
the magnificent palace, or rather the imperial city of Dolma 
Bagtche, the residence of the Sultans; the Great Wall begun 
by Theodosius, which protected the town toward the land side, 
the large cisterns, which are said to have furnished water 
for one million men during four months, and the Castle of the 
Seven Towers, of evil fame, recalling the worst epochs of ty¬ 
ranny of the Sultans. The Great Bazaar, that universal and 
perpetual fair, will well repay a prolonged visit. It contains 
innumerable shops, where all the different trades are carried 
on, and almost everything useful or ornamental may be pur¬ 
chased. The endless rows of stalls along each side of a cov¬ 
ered street, where articles are often manufactured as well as 
sold, present a constant succession of novel scenes, and the 
motley throng of purchasers is extremely amusing. Sedate 
Turks, thin-bearded Arabs, melancholy-looking Armenians, 
swaggering Greeks, Dervishes in their peculiar dress, crowned 
with high caps, and many others are all crowded together, 
each driving his own bargain, and betraying by his physiog¬ 
nomy and gestures, the characteristics of his calling, nation 
and habits. Constantinople can also boast of hospitals, alms¬ 
houses, schools, colleges and public libraries, which surpass 
any now existing in other parts of the Mohammedan world. 

Scutari, with its beautiful cemeteries, should be visited, 
and Buyukdere, the glory of the Bosphorus. 

There are few places which excite the fancy of the traveler 
as Stamboul does. Every door, every tower, every mosque, 
every square recalls some wonderful occurrence, or some car¬ 
nage, some love or mystery or prowess of a Padishah or ca¬ 
price of a Sultana, every place has its legend and the sur¬ 
roundings concur to bear away the imagination. 
a / < Even the shortest sojourn in Greece will yield rich 

* reward and contribute much toward a thorough 
comprehension of a civilization from which modern life has 

25 


still much to learn. The enjoyment of a visit is enhanced by 
the fine scenery, the deep blue water, and clear, ethereal atmos¬ 
phere. Upon rounding Cape Kolonais, the steamer holds a 
direct course for the Piraeus, the Port of Athens. The barren 

hill visible on the main¬ 
land is the Hymettos; 
soon the coast of Sala- 
mis appears and the 
steamer anchors in the 
bay of Piraeus outside 
the mole. At this point 
a charming view of 
Athens is obtained with 
the Acropolis in the 
centre. A railway con¬ 
nects the Piraeus with 
Athens, which is 
reached in twenty min¬ 
utes. A great deal may be accomplished in Athens in a short 
time, as all the principal sights are within a short distance of 
each other. 

The centre of attraction, of course, is the magnificent 
Acropolis with the Propylaea, the most important secular work 
in ancient Athens; the Temple of Athena, with its exquisite 
reliefs; the Parthenon, the most perfect monument of ancient 
art, and even in ruins an imposing object; and the Erechteion 
with its celebrated Portico of the Caryatides. The Arch of 
Hadrian, an isolated gateway, leads to the quarter of the 
city containing the 
Olympieion, the huge 
temple of Zeus. The 
Stadion, the scene of the 
Panathenaean games, is 
said to have accommo¬ 
dated 50,000 spectators. 

The Choragic monument 
of Lysikrates forms a 
beautiful little building, 
resembling a small cir¬ 
cular temple, and popu¬ 
larly known as the Lant¬ 
ern of Diogenes. The 
Theatre of Dionysos is 



ARCH OF HADRIAN, ATHENS. 



ATHENS. 


26 

















the spot where the 
master-pieces of 
^Eschylus, Sophocles, 
Euripides and Aris¬ 
tophanes first excited 
delight and admira¬ 
tion. The Oeion of 
Herodes Atticus is the 
loftiest and most con¬ 
spicuous among the 
ruins at the base of the 
Acropolis. Opposite 
lies the rocky height, 
which both in ancient 
and modern times has 
borne the name of 
Aeropagus. 

The Tower of the 
Winds, erroneously so 
called, in ancient 
times accommodated 
a water-clock, a sun- 
Theseion, the temple of 
Theseus, is the best preserved edifice of the whole of ancient 
Greece; not far from it, is the Hill of the Pnyx, with its huge 
artificial platform, and the Monument of Philopappos, whence 
a magnificent view of Athens and the Acropolis may be ob¬ 
tained. These comprise the principal remains of antiquity 
which the traveler will care to examine. Modern Athens is a 
handsome and regularly built town of about 84,000 inhabitants. 
In 1834, when the seat of government was transferred thither 
from Nauplia, it had dwindled down to a poor village of about 
300 houses. 


A STREET SCFNE, CANEA CRETE. 

BY PERMISSION OF UNDERWOOD A UNDERWOOD, N. Y. 

dial and a weather-cock. The 


C + A line run due south across the Mediter- 
l s&nC&t LtPCie* ran ean one hundred and fifty miles from 
Athens, Greece, would touch Canea, the chief city of Candia 
or Crete, one of the largest islands of the Mediterranean, 
which spreads itself across the entrance of the Archipelago 
for a distance of some hundred and sixty miles. 

Homer, in his immortal Odyssey says of Crete that it had 
ninety cities, but be that as it may, the island of modern days 
has but three of any importance, Canea. Retimo and Candia, 
all seaport towns, and of an architecture strikingly Turkish 


27 




in character and style. Crete’s history runs back so far that 
it is merged into Grecian mythology. The ancient historians 

claim that it was 
governed by its own 
kings in the earliest 
times, who were no 
less personages than 
Saturn, Jupiter and 
Minos, and that they 
reigned in succession 
som e where about 
1300 years before 
Christ. The Island 
was bartered and 

BY PERMISSION OF UNDERWOOD A UNDERWOOD, N. Y. fOUght for between 

the nations of the East for centuries. In 1204, Pope Boniface, 
to whom Baldwin I. had given it, sold it to the Venetians, 
who had proven to be a power upon the Mediterranean. In 
the seventeeth century the Turks first assumed their power 
over the island, having finally conquered it after a war which 
lasted twenty-four years. 

The more recent history of the island has been of such a 
bloody character that even time will not serve to dull the edge 
of the horror felt by the Christianized world over the many 
atrocities committed under Turkish rule. 

Topographically, Crete is mountainous and rocky. Along 
the south side of the western end of the island a rugged 
mountain chain extends for some thirty-five miles. At a dis¬ 
tance they look almost white. Mt. Ida, called by the natives 
Upsiloritis, is a towering peak of gray marble, absolutely bar¬ 
ren and forbidding in appearance. This may be plainly seen 
from Retimo and is famous because it is said that Jupiter 
passed his youth in hunting upon it. (Illustrations of Canea, 
loaned by Messrs. Underwood & Underwood, Stereoscopic 
View Publishers, New York and London). 

From Canea to Palermo the steamer passes through the 
Straits of Messina. On passing out of the latter, Scilla (the 
ancient Scylla) is seen on the right, the location of the whirl¬ 
pool, which was so much feared by the mariners of antiquity. 
Opposite the Scylla, represented in Homer’s Odyssey as a 
roaring and voracious sea-monster—a beautiful virgin above, 
with a wolf’s body and dolphin’s tail below—was the Charybdis 
fraught,, with equal danger. No trace of either c^p be 

28 



PORT OF CANEA, CRETE. 






CATHEDRAL, PALERMO. 

is embellished with 
columns and statues 
of the seasons, Span¬ 
ish Kings and saints. 

The University is one 
of the several seats of 
learning in Italy, and 

is attended by about roRTA Palermo. 

1,100 students. I he 

Porta Felice, a tasteful baroque edifice with fountains and 


found at present, except that the currents and eddies in 
the straits are still very strong. The steamer then runs 
close to the Lipari Islands which already at an early period 
supplied abundant food to the poetic fancy of the Greeks, 
whose legends make these islands the abode of Aeolus. 
Palermo * s militar y> "judicial and ecclesiastical capital 
i dLtrmo Q f thg island, and has nearly a quarter of a million 
inhabitants. It is justly entitled to the epithet “la felice,” on 
account of its magnificent situation and delightful climate. It 
is rich in interesting monuments of the early middle ages. 

The Palazzo Reale is of Saracenic origin, and has a mag¬ 
nificent chapel, the Capella Palatina. The Cathedral was 
erected in the twelfth century by Archbishop Walter of the 
Mill (Gualterio Offamilio), an Englishman, on the site of a 
more ancient church. The Church of La Martorana also dates 
from the twelfth century, and was formerly a meeting place 
of the Sicilian Parliament after the expulsion of the house of 

Anjou. The Palazzo 
Sclafani contains a 
large fresco of the fif¬ 
teenth century, the 
Triumph of Death. 
The Quarto Canti, a 
small octagonal piazza, 


29 
















PALERMO AND THE MONTE PELLEGRINO. 


statues, was begun in 1852. The Church of San Dominico, 
erected in 1640, can accommodate 12,000 people; it contains 
fine pictures and monuments. The National Museum is well 
worth a prolonged visit. A beautiful walk is afforded by the 
Marina, a quay, commanding fine views along the coast, and 
as far as Mount JE tna. At the southern end of the Marina 
is the Flora, one of the most charming gardens in Italy. 
Monte Pellegrino, an indescribably beautiful mass of rock, 
rises at the northwestern end of the Bay of Palermo; the as¬ 
cent is easy and the view from the summit magnificent. 
xt / Passing the celebrated Islands of Ischia and 
lvdpLcS* Capri, the steamer casts anchor in the magnificent 
Bay of Naples, which from the most ancient times has been 
the object of enthusiastic admiration. 

Naples is the most populous town in Italy (over 500,000 in¬ 
habitants), and is annually visited by thousands of strangers 
in quest of enjoyment or health. It lies at the base and on 
the slopes of several slight hills, rising from the sea in amphi¬ 
theatre-like form. South of it appears, in isolated majesty, 
Mount Vesuvius, with its active crater, the “Forge of Vulcan.” 
The plain around, as well as the slopes of Vesuvius are luxuri¬ 
antly fertile and one of the most densely peopled districts in 
the world. Nature has so bountifully lavished her gifts on 
this favored spot, that the most powerful nations, who have in 
succession been masters of the place, have here wasted their 
strength and energy, and succumbed to its alluring influence. 
“ Vedi Napoli e poi mori!” is a current saying in Italy. 

An excursion from Naples along the north shore of the 
bay embraces a visit to Pozzuoli, Baise, Misenum and Cums. 
This district has from time immemorial been the scene of 

30 









NAPLES. 

1, STREET IN NAPLES. 2. MACCARONI VENDERS. 3. THE GROTTO OF POZZUOLI. 

4. SALERNO. 5. ISCHIA, 




























tremendous volcanic activity, and has undergone vast changes, 
but is scarcely less interesting from an historical point of 
view, for the legions of Hellenic traditions are most intimately 
associated with this coast. A visit should be made to the 
charming islands of Procida and Ischia. These lovely islands 
have attracted numerous visitors in all ages, and their influ¬ 
ence is as fascinating as ever; the climate is genial and the 
soil extremely productive, while the scenery is almost every¬ 
where singularly beautiful. 

The ascent of Mount Vesuvius is unquestionably an ex¬ 
cursion of extreme interest; it can be accomplished with ease 
by means of a cable railway. A visit to the excavated cities 
of Herculane'um and Pompeii will summon up a picture of 
ancient domestic life, these places being the most important 
and almost the only source of our acquaintance with it. 

The places of interest on the south side of the bay are 
Castellamare, Sorrento and the Island of Capri. Castellamare 
is a famous summer resort for the Neapolitans; from here a 
beautiful road leads to Sorrento, charmingly situated amid 
luxuriant lemon and orange gardens on rocks rising precipi¬ 
tously from the sea. One whole day at least should be given 
to the Island of Capri, with its celebrated “Blue Grotto.” 
The Bay of Salerno to the south of the Bay of Naples, cannot 
indeed compete with it, but it is, nevertheless, replete with 
beauty and grandeur. Here are situated the towns of Salerno 
and Amalfi, conspicuous in the pages of mediaeval history, 
while further south are the temples of Paestum which recall 
the golden period of Greek history and art more forcibly than 
any locality in Italy. The distance by rail from Naples to 
Rome is only five hours, so that excursionists can visit the 
Eternal City with ease. 

It would take too long even to mention only the sights of 
Rome; suffice it to repeat the words of Niebuhr, “As the 
streams lose themselves in the mightier ocean, so the history 
of the peoples once distributed along the Mediterranean shores, 
is absorbed in that of the mighty Mistress of the World.” 


The steamer after leaving Naples again calls at Genoa, 
to land passengers who wish to prolong their stay in Europe. 
To such the Hamburg-American Line extends the privilege of 
returning to the United States by any one of the Company’s 
express steamers from Hamburg, Southampton or Cherbourg, 
up to August i, 1898. 


32 



THE HAMB URG-AMERICAN LINE'S : : 


Magnificent Twin-Screw Express Steamers 
Auguste- Victoria, Columbia, Furst Bismarck 
and Normannia, 


Of 13,000=16,400 horse=power, are among the finest, largest and 
fastest ships afloat. 


^ / No expense has been spared to make these ships as 

sa f e as human foresight can secure. They are 
practically unsinkable, being divided by a longitudinal bulk¬ 
head into two non-communicating halves, each fully equipped 
with a complete set of machinery, shaft and screw, capable of 
propelling the ship at a high rate of speed. This is the great 
principle of the twin-screw system, and the extraordinary 



PROMENADE DECK. 

degree of safety secured by this system is obvious, for an acci¬ 
dent to one side of the ship can in nowise affect the other, 
the machinery of which will continue to work and propel the 
ship with perfect ease, and at a high rate of speed. 

The steamers also have a double bottom, divided into 
water-tight chambers. Each side of the ship is again subdi¬ 
vided into numerous water-tight compartments which do not 
communicate with each other. 

These steamers do not carry cotton. 

33 










j These steamers must be counted among the fastest 
opeea. s hips afloat, the line holding the record for fastest 
time from New York to Southampton (London) and the Con¬ 
tinent. The best time accomplished on the Southampton route 
was 6 days 9 hours and 43 minutes, which is equal to 5 days 17 
hours from New York to Queenstown. Southampton being 
about 300 miles east from Queenstown. The best average for 
the whole trip was 20^ knots or over 23^ statute miles per hour. 
CnrrrPn / The com ^ ort an( l elegance displayed on these 
\jOulJOTl* steamers are unsurpassed. The large and lux¬ 
urious saloons, the ladies’ boudoirs, the music and smoking- 
rooms and the state-rooms generally are fitted up in magnifi¬ 
cent style, the best European artists having been retained to 
design, decorate and furnish them. It has been the aim of the 
Company to relieve passengers of all annoyances which were 
heretofore considered inseparable from a sea voyage, and pro¬ 
vide for them the same accommodations that can be obtained 
in a first-class hotel. Among the many improvements con¬ 
tributing to the passengers’ comfort will be found larger and 
more commodious state-rooms, with most luxurious toilet con¬ 
veniences and large beds, thorough methods of ventilation, 
ample deck room for exercise, spacious dining-saloons, ladies’ 
saloon on the promenade deck, also a large music-room, the 
absence of all offensive odors or noises, and a complete and 
first-class service throughout. The state-rooms are all of large 
size, airy and comfortable; some of them are furnished in the 
style of chambres de luxe and others with private bath-rooms 
attached. All state-rooms are provided with electric bells, 
wardrobe and other conveniences. Berths and sofas are large 
and comfortable, so that a whole family often finds accommo¬ 
dation in one room. A number of state-rooms are also ar¬ 
ranged en suite. In many rooms the lower berth can be 
extended to form a double berth, while the upper berth can be 
removed. 

There is no overcrowding on these steamers, the num¬ 
ber of passengers being limited to the seating capacity of the 
saloons. 

For further description of steamers see special pam¬ 
phlet , which will be sent to any address on application. 

HAMBURG-AMERICAN LINE, 


37 Broadway, New York: 


159 Randolph St., Chicago, III. 
34 



MEDITERRANEAN EXPRESS SERVICE: : 


From Nem) York to Gibraltar, Naples and 
Genoa . 

D URING the winter months the magnificent twin-screw 
steamers of the Hamburg-American Line maintain an 
express service between the United States and the Mediter¬ 
ranean, sailing from New York to Gibraltar, Naples and 



FIRST CABIN, MAIN SALOON, UPPER DECK. 

Genoa. The sailings alternate with those of the North Ger¬ 
man Lloyd steamers. By this route passengers avoid the 
rigors of the North Atlantic in winter and can reach all parts 
of Spain and Portugal, Southern France, Italy, Switzerland, 
Tyrol, as well as North Africa and the Orient, with safety , 
speed and comfort . 


35 






'T'he route to (xibraltar is south of the latitude of New 
York, Gibraltar being 36° 6' 30" N., and the distance is not 
much greater than that to Southampton. For passengers 
going to Southern Europe, this direct route offers many ad¬ 
vantages, as it saves the trouble and expense of a long railway 
journey across Europe. 

/jV'r // For description see pages 6-7. 

KjiDVdLlar # Across the bay from Gibraltar, and connected 
with it by a regular ferry service, lies Algeciras, the terminus 



FIRST CABIN, MAIN SALOON, MAIN DECK. 

of the railway system of Spain. From here a few hours’ ride 
brings passengers to Seville and Granada, the most interest¬ 
ing towns in Andalusia, and to Cadiz and Malaga, whence all 
parts of Spain and Portugal can be conveniently reached. 

Steamers leave Gibraltar for Tangier every Monday, Wed¬ 
nesday, Thursday and Saturday at noon, returning the next 
day. 

The steamer next proceeds to 

36 





xr f the passage occupying about thirty-six hours. 
lyapLcS t The number of interesting points to be visited in 
Naples and vicinity is almost unlimited. 

From Naples the railway takes passengers in five hours 
to Rome, with its countless treasures of art. 

Brindisi can be reached in a little over ten hours; from 
here the Peninsular and Oriental steamers start for India, via 



FIRST CABIN, SMOKING-ROOM. 

Suez Canal, upon arrival of the “Indian Mail” train from 
London. 

Naples has frequent steamboat connections with Messina, 
Palermo and other points in Sicily, but Messina can also be 
reached via Reggio, which has direct railway connections with 
Naples. Alexandria can be reached from Naples in four and a 

half days. , , , 

r the terminus of the line, is reached the following 

Lrenodt day. This is the most convenient starting point 
for all the health resorts of the Riviera, viz., Pegli, San Remo, 
Bordighera, Mentone, Monaco, Nice, Antibes, Cannes, Frejus 
Hyeres, etc. Marseilles is only about thirteen hours distant, 

37 






whence many interesting excursions may be made to the ven¬ 
erable cities of the Provence, abounding in remains of Roman 
antiquity. A direct line runs from here to Toulouse, the 
ancient capital of Languedoc, whence all parts of the Pyrenees 
and the spas of Bagneres-de-Bigorre, Bagneres-de-Luchon, 
Eaux-Bonnes, Eaux-Chaudes, as well as Pau, are within easy 
reach. Steamers leave Marseilles for Algiers every Monday, 
Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday. 

From Genoa travelers can take the Montcenis Tunnel 
route for Aix-les-Bains, Geneva, Lyons, etc., while by the 
Gotthard Tunnel they can reach the heart of Switzerland 
within half a day. The Italian lakes, whose incomparable 
beauty has been extolled by countless poets and writers since 
the time of Virgil, are only a few hours distant from Genoa; 
and the historical cities of Upper Italy and Tuscany—Turin, 
Milan, Verona, Padua, Venice, Pavia, Cremona, Mantua, 
Parma, Modena, Bologna, Pisa, Siena, Leghorn and Florence 
—containing innumerable treasures of the most perfect crea¬ 
tions of genius, are also within convenient reach. One of the 
most delightful trips in Europe is from Genoa via the Italian 
lakes over the Stelvio pass into the Tyrol. The varied beauty 
of scenery along this route is generally acknowledged to have 
no superior anywhere. 

For further description of Naples atid Genoa see pages 
11-12 and 30-31-32. 

Returning, the Hamburg-American Steamers leave 
Genoa (calling at times at Naples) via Gibraltar for New York, 
and, therefore, accommodate Americans desiring to sail from 
Italy direct for the United States. 


38 


EXPRESS SERVICE FROM : : : : : : 

New York to Alexandria, Egypt, Direct. 
Via Gibraltar, Genoa and Naples. 

IN ORDER to accommodate the large and constantly in 
* creasing American winter travel to Egypt, Palestine, etc., 
the Hamburg-American Line despatches in the months of 
January and February of every year, several express steam¬ 
ers from New York to Alexandria, touching at Gibraltar, 
Genoa and Naples, thus offering unusual facilities for reach¬ 
ing Egypt and all countries of the Levant. 



FIRST CABIN, STATEROOM. 

The trip from New York to Alexandria direct occupies 
only fourteen days, so that passengers may be transferred 
within the short space of two weeks from the metropolis of the 
New World to the cradle of the Old World, or, indeed, to the 
fountain head of human culture, aboard one of the finest 
steamers afloat, without change and with absolute safety , the 
greatest speed and unsurpassed comfort. 

For further description of Alexandria and Egypt , see 
pages 14-18. 

List of rates to Gibraltar , Ge?ioa, Naples and Alex¬ 
andria, diagrams of steamers and all further information 
will be sent to any address on application. 

39 






ELEET or THE HAMBURG-AMERICAN LINE. 

/<? 97. 


TWIN-SCREW EXPRESS STEAMERS. 


Steamer, Tonnage. 

H. P. 

Steamer. Tonnage, 

H. P. 

i. Fiirst Bismarck, 

8,430 

16,400 

3. Auguste-Victoria, 

8,400 

13,000 

2. Normannia, 8,242 16,000 | 4. Columbia, 

TWIN-SCREW MAIL STEAMERS. 

7.241 

13,000 

5. Pennsylvania, 

6. Pretoria (Building) 

I 3 i 5 °° 

6,000 

12. Brasilia, 

10,000 

6,000 

I 3 ) 5 °° 

6,000 

13. Belgia, 

10,000 

6,000 

6,000 

7. Palatia, 

6,687 

5,500 

14. Bulgaria, 

10,000 

8. Patria, 

6,664 

5,500 

15. Assyria, 

6,500 

5,500 

9. Phoenicia, 

6,761 

5,500 

16. Ambria, 

5.043 

5,000 

10. Prussia, 

5,795 

5,000 

17. Alesia, 

5,060 

5,000 

11. Persia, 

5,796 5,000 

OTHER ST 

18. Aragonia, 

EAMERS. 

5,250 

5,000 

19. Adria, 

5.458 

3,000 

54. Hungaria, 

1,991 

1,000 

20. Andalusia, 

5,457 

3,000 

55. Markomannia, 

3,335 

2,000 

21. Arabia, 

5 , 5 °° 

3,000 

56. Polaria, 

2,673 

1,200 

22. Armenia, 

5 i 4 S 8 

3,000 

57. Polonia, 

2,811 

1,500 

23. Asturia, 

5,285 

3,000 

58. Polynesia, 

2,171 

1,000 

850 

24. Arcadia, 

5 , 5 oo 

3,000 

59. Rhenania, 

1,820 

25. Bohemia, 

3 , 44 i 

1,600 

60. Saxonia, 

i ,745 

800 

26. California, 

2,605 

1,350 

61. Slavonia, 

2,215 

1,738 

1,150 

27. Italia, 

3,564 

1,900 

62. Teutonia, 

800 

28. Moravia, 

3,690 

2,000 

63. Thuringia, 

1,881 

800 

29. Russia, 

3 , 9°8 

3,!oo 

64. Valesia, 

65. Valdivia, 

2,295 

1,150 

30. Scandia, 

4,243 

3,100 

2,165 

1,200 

31. Venetia, 

2,822 

1,500 

66. Valencia, 

2,194 

1,200 

32. Virginia, 

2,820 

1,600 

67. Calabria, 

3,°°3 

1,500 

33. Christiania, 

2,811 

1,400 

1,827 

68. Constantia, 

2,997 

1,500 

34. Georgia, 

3 , M 3 

69. Castilia, 

2,911 

1,500 

35. Hispania, 

2,578 

1,200 

70. Blankenese, 

398 

36. Scotia, 

2,558 

1,400 

71. Hansa, 

528 

— 

37. Sicilia, 

2,922 

1,600 

72. Export, 

112 

— 

38. Allemannia, 

1,818 

2,046 

850 

73. Expedient, 

IOO 

— 

39. Ascania, 

I, IOO 

74. Express, 

IOO 

_ 

40. Australia, 

2,151 

2,646 

640 

75. Concurrent, 

80 

_ 

41. Bolivia, 

1,780 

76. Pilot, 

60 

_ 

42. Canadia, 

2,404 

1,200 

77. Packetfahrt, 

25 

_ 

43. Cheruskia, 

3,250 

1,500 

78. H.-A. P. A.-G., 

25 

_ 

44. Croatia, 

1,991 

I, IOO 

79. Libelle, 

15 

_ 

45. Dalecarlia, 

1,972 

1,988 

2,041 

900 

80. Assistent, 

25 

_ 

46. Dalmatia, 

47. Flandria, 

805 

1,200 

81. Water Boat, 

82-121. 40 Lighters, 

80 

— 

48. Francia, 

2, IIO 

1,000 

Tenders, etc.. 

IO.CKO 

_ 

49. Galicia, 

2,860 

1,200 

122. Floating Steam Crane,— 

_ 

50. Gothia 

51. Helvetia, 

2,381 

2,825 

I,l8o 

1,400 

123. Floating Grain Elevator, 

— 

52. Hercynia, 

53. Holsatia, 

2,630 

1,817 

1,500 

800 

Total Tonnage, 

304,005 tons. 


SOUTH PUB. CO., 
ILLUSTRATOR8 £ PRINTERS, 
195 FULTON ST., N. Y. 







FIR6T CABIN, SOCIAL HALL. STEAMSHIP AUGUSTE-VICTORIA. FIRST CABIN LADIES’ SALOON. 


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